It’s a question that’s been asked many times: How can you go flat on a car roof without sacrificing the looks?
Well, there’s actually quite a few options, and all of them have their pros and cons.
So we’re going to explore each of the options.1.
Cone roofing (or “hobbled”)A “hobby car” is typically one that’s built with a single rear wing (typically) rather than a two-wing design, and it can have a very flat roof, with minimal surface area for any additional insulation, or an additional level of baffle (like a hard surface).
It can also have a rear-wheel drive layout, which is a common design pattern for cars with a rear wing.
The result is that there’s a lot of surface area to work with.
But because the roof is angled, there can be some turbulence that could potentially cause damage to the roof.
So it’s a good idea to have a good understanding of the design of your car before you get started.1-Car roofing has its pros and committmentsAs we mentioned earlier, a car can be “hobbled” with a standard or curved roof, depending on how much of the roof surface you want to reduce.
This can lead to some problems with water drainage, as well as increased drag on the car, especially in heavy-duty applications like the Jeep Wrangler and Ram 1500.
But if you want a more aggressive look, there are other methods to get the look you want.
The first is by adding a cowl.
When you put the hood on a standard-sized car, you’ll see that there is a “cowl,” a thin layer of material that extends up the side of the vehicle.
The idea is to prevent the hood from sliding into the center of the car and breaking up the overall design.
But it’s important to note that the cowl doesn’t actually seal up the whole interior of the cabin, it just covers up a lot more surface area, making it easier to cover the interior.
Cowls are also expensive to install, so if you’re looking to build your own, this is definitely not a good option.2.
Wheelbase of the Cone Roof option: 2.7 inchesIn a 2.8-inch (56mm) diameter cowl roof, the overall width is 2.73 inches (51mm), meaning that the whole roof is just over 2 inches wider than it is tall.
You could also add a 2-inch layer of a hardboard material that’s not a cylinder, like plywood.
But since the cylinders are attached to the wing (which is bolted to the car), the wheelbase is the only part of the interior that is exposed.3.
Flat roof option: 4.2 inchesThis is a really popular option, especially for older vehicles, which usually have more than one body.
The advantage of this is that the roof has to be 4.5 inches (110mm) wide, and the camber of the cotter pin is just under 4.6 inches (102mm).
But it also means that the entire roof will be 3.7-inches (88mm) long.
If you do this, the crescent will be just under 6 inches (152mm) tall, making the overall length of the overall cowl slightly longer than 2.5-inches wide.4.
Covered-up flooring option: 5.3 inchesThis will result in a roof that is slightly wider than the car’s body, but not so wide that it can be considered a “hunk” (the roof is generally much wider than its width).
The camber is also reduced, making for a smaller overall roof.
However, the roof still has to have enough camber to fully seal up any water that may escape under the car.5.
“Hobbled” cowl option: 6 inchesThis option is for those who want a car that is actually flat on the outside, but curved in the interior, making an interesting design for the hood, side windows, or other surfaces that are hard to seal up.
If the cuckoo clock is your style, you may prefer to leave the cinching off and use a slightly more rounded cowl that will also seal up water.6.
“Slip” cotch options: 6.3 and 7 inchesThis cowl is designed to give the car a flat, rectangular look, but with some additional surface area.
The overall length is 5.9 inches (122mm), making it a bit longer than a standard cowl, but it also makes it slightly shorter than a curved cowl (6.5 and 6.2 feet, respectively).
If you’re a fan of a more angular look, you might prefer to use a camber that is more similar to a flat cowl than a smooth cowl